




Now the next set of pictures are all from a sea caves expedition that we took on our own, independent of MCAS. It was an amazing day, if a little windy, and the shoreline was magnificent.








Oh, yeah. And I went swimming in the Mediterranean. It was so cold I could barely breathe, and the salt was rather shocking for something so clear and blue.
The pink cylindrical building on the hill is the backside of the Duomo.

If you squint at this picture, you can just make out a few people sunbathing on top of the rock. Just for a size comparison, you know.
Then yesterday we went to a nature preserve called Pantalica. It is also home to a very large bronze age necropolis and anaktoron and a series of byzantine settlements that used the caves originally cut into the rock for tombs as houses.

This is one of the tombs that got turned into a byzantine building. It was actually a church for a very tiny congregation of people scraping an existence off of the mountains.
You can still make out some of the frescoes that adorned the inside of the church. If you need a hint, look in the middle and think something religious. There's also a lot of graffiti in here, a fact that made Professor Metcalfe genuinely angry, although his accent still sounded charming while he was complaining about the youth these days. It was really fun being up there with him and Professor Becker, although I think that for a while I was contemplating cutting off Prof. Metcalfe's legs at the knees so he wouldn't go so darn fast on those almost straight up endless stairs of death.
This is me in another Byzantine house, one that was made to be two stories. The second floor has since collapsed. That is a major problem with limestone. It is very soft, although yesterday it didn't feel that way whenever I ended up sliding on it and flopping down on my butt or hands, and it erodes at an astonishing rate. No one knows the exact number of tombs in Pantalica, although it has been estimated at about 5000. Who knows how many have been lost to the ravages of time and water?
In case my earlier descriptions of the size of this place didn't give you a good idea, here is one picture looking one way down the valley. There is another view just as grandiose in the other direction. See those little dots in the side of that cliff? Tombs. They look like swallow nests.
Here is what the average tomb looks like on the inside when it isn't expanded by the byzantines. Some of them, especially the later ones, are bigger. Some even have multiple rooms and were intended for the entire family. Each time another family member died, another room was added.
Here is what the look like from farther out. One of the ones in the hillside looks like it is still sealed up, and only had a test hole drilled into it by archaeologists.
This is when we were going up one of the calmer slopes and I thought we had been strung out in an amusing way. Normally when we were going up and down some of the steeper slopes, I didn't take my camera out. I was too afraid of dropping it.
And here we are at the top, sitting on the foundation of the Anaktoron or palace, or at least that is what it is called. It is the only building they have been able to find that even indicates the city that they know had to have been up here. The problem is that at that time, everything was made of perishable materials, so it is difficult to find traces. Also, the blocks are recognizably bronze age, but the floor plan is very reminicent of a byzantine farm house. Darn byzantines!
And here is the view from the top, out over the entire valley. The photo really does not do the view justice.
This photo comes pretty close to it, though. This is from about halfway back down the mountain. (but of course after you climb up it you have to go back down!) and looking at the river and road that run along the bottom of the valley. The source of the river is very close by, so the river is extraordinarily clear.
On the way down we had a chance to see another cave byzantine church. This one had a few more frescoes left on the walls, although they are a bit less recognizable. Maybe one of the saints?
This picture demonstrates very well the damage that erosion does to these tombs. This is one that simply fell away from the mountain entirely.
Another shot of the mountain peak. You can see a few more tombs in it.
This, my friends, is paradise. We had been hiking at a fast pace for a good four hours. Finally we reached the river. A swim has never felt so good. The river wasn't far from its source, and it was freezing cold, which was exactly what was needed.












Then yesterday we went to a nature preserve called Pantalica. It is also home to a very large bronze age necropolis and anaktoron and a series of byzantine settlements that used the caves originally cut into the rock for tombs as houses.














